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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 7:58 am 
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Are EBC (or other makes) of Pads such as the sintered variety preferred over stock Honda ones? Any reason not to try these?
Also, although the manual suggests checking fluid level with the steering head on, I believe actually the steering should be turned fully one way such as to the right(?) to check otherwise the level reads low? (I seem to remember it was low from new unless the steering was turned) < just need to check if that is the way to do it. Thanks!

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2017 5:44 pm 
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I'm always of the opinion "if it works, don't fix it" - and for me, my stock pads are working fine after almost 2 1/2 years and over 32,000km.

With regards to levels, I check mine with the bike on the centre stand with the wheel straight ahead. It's normal for the fluid level to drop as the front pads wear because it takes more fluid to push the piston further - this is NOT a reason to "top it up". Other than changing the fluid every couple of years you shouldn't need to add any new fluid.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 2:04 am 
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I've got etc brake shoes. Seem fine, can't tell any difference.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 2:27 am 
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Stocks pad seems fine to me, but I haven't tried using any other aftermarket brand yet..So there goes my opinion..

Fluid level (both front and CBS) seem to be always on the low level as the pads get worn. Pointed that out to the Honda mechanic yesterday, he took a quick look at the pads and told me to not worry about it as there's still quite enough pads left.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 5:41 am 
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I have been using ebc sintered front brake pads and they just completly rusted over the winter. Metal back plates are covered in something that looks like copper coating instead of being painted. That stuff just rotted away from rain and road salt.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:29 am 
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lolofigo wrote:
I have been using ebc sintered front brake pads and they just completly rusted over the winter. Metal back plates are covered in something that looks like copper coating instead of being painted. That stuff just rotted away from rain and road salt.

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In the UK its best to smear a thin layer of copper grease over the back of any pads to ward off the salt.

Copper backing colour? Were they genuine EBC?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 10:53 am 
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Thanks all - searched google and it often is a good way of finding posts here as the local search does not always find what you need, and some said sintered pads last longer and don't have much brake dust build-up(?). I thought it was posted here, long ago, that others had to turn the steering from new to get proper level readings, but hey - thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 11:02 am 
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iceman wrote:
to get proper level readings?


PCX on center stand, turn handle bars fully left, eye will fill completely. Back to straight eye will show half full. About all I will comment about brakes, pad replacement and service with exception of the brake-lock for those who have it. I'm not a whisperer ;) Improper understanding of PCX brake system if you don't have the SM to explain it can get you hurt.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 7:16 pm 
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I would stay away from no name aftermarket brake pads. Only reason I would buy aftermarket is because they are cheaper. OEM pads worked great for me.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 7:27 pm 
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iceman wrote:
some said sintered pads last longer


I'd be interested to know if anyone here has actually completely worn out any OEM pads? I probably do more miles than most and I'm still using the original set and they still have a lot to go yet - I'd I'm generally quite aggressive on the brakes.

So if others are like me - and only need to change them every 3 to 5 years - personally, I wouldn't much around with unknown quantities.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 7:27 pm 
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homie wrote:
I'm not a whisperer


BS! :D


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 9:24 pm 
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TheMaverick wrote:
homie wrote:
I'm not a whisperer

BS! :D
OH NO! A long ways to go, I'm a Buell whisperer :D This Honda contraption has me guessing half the time.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 8:16 am 
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Most video's show the whole front brake assembly being removed to change the pads, which is probably a good way but the service manual shows a pin/bolt being removed and the pads falling out / being replaced with the assembly still attached - anyone do it that way?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 9:38 pm 
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Quote:
PCX on center stand, turn handle bars fully left, eye will fill completely. Back to straight eye will show half full.

I assume that for the handlebar & lever clamps in the factory position. I rotated my bars front and then levers & clamps back (even farther than stock) for better seating & hand positions. After these changes on my PCX with only 1k miles, the front brake fluid is parallel to the top of the eye with the handle bars straight.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 10:23 am 
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Well, the pads I ordered that should have arrived 1st class post Thursday are still not here, so being deperate to use the bike next week for work rather than 'bus' it (horrendous road works at present adding best part of an hour to a journey) I went out and bought a 2nd new set so I can get the pads changed this weekend - should they be the cause.
I was incorrect mentioning EBC and sintered in the same sentence - EBC make two normal 'scooter' style pads - sintered (for large cc sports bikes and organic for lower cc sports style urban bikes). These were the type I ordered and the ones a Honda dealer had in stock - they do not stock the Honda ones and have to order them! £12 Ebay delivered, £20 from a dealer - not a bad price though. As it's a mix of sun one minute and showers the next, I'll try and do the investigation and swap tomorrow. The dealer thought the sound I am hearing and problem is the pads - which is kind of backed up by the fluid level being low.
I was surprised to find the pads normally skim the disc as there is not much 'pull' away from the disc, just the hydraulic press 'onto' the pads.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 09, 2017 6:03 pm 
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Just curious - how many km has the bike done?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 11:28 am 
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Just under 13,000 miles on all original parts - inc rear IRC tyre (but that needs changing soon as approaching lower limit now). Soon have to decide on CG's or Piablo or such :)

What I thought would be a 20 minute job took over an hour and still not totally sorted. Most of the time spent was trying to clean 3+ years of UK all-weather muck off parts and trying to get the pistons recessed far enough to get the new pads on - failed in that task! Both front pads were worn almost flat but I did not notice any issue till the past week or so. To be fair, the top brake level was much lower than usual but still 1/3rd of the window. I had had a recent MOT but that must of just been yeah, brakes and everything fine rather than a proper inspection, but they should have advised pad wear was below the lower limit !!!

The three piston tube things cleaned up a bit (using brake cleaner) but still look a bit crudy - be easier if they were completely removed and the inner walls cleaned too, but not tried that today as yet again sun went away and it got over-cast (I'm doing this on a driveway as no garage). I'm not sure how easy or wise that would be or if it would then allow them to go all the way in. There is definitely not much free space with new 5mm pads and the disc talen into consideration.

At present I've left one new pad on (piston side) and using the old pad on the non-piston side to at least get the bike back together. Pumped the handle a few times to get things right before testing - noise gone completely and bike stops fine (I use rear then a bit of front and mostly engine breaking and never usually go hard on the front brake - I know CBS uses a bit of the front a bit too). This is just a stop gap before having another go or taking it to a garage as this will not do the disc any good as it does not have much pressing on it from the other side when the pistons move - 5mm pad one side, bascally an almost flat pad the other side.

I could get all three pistons in enough to fit both new pads, but there was no gap between them for the disc. I advise not to do what the Honda service manual suggests by just removing the pin to change pads, but to take the assembly off to give it a clean - at least in countries like the UK were crud gets everywhere. Best to clean the pistons before they are pushed fully home by new pads!

Anyone changed the pads and had issues getting the pistons in enough?

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 5:28 pm 
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Interesting. Mine is at 33,000km, and still on original pads at both ends, but getting low (new ones on order). I don't run rear tyres past 10,000km regardless of wear indicators - had 4 punctures in 2 years and 3 of them were due to the rubber getting too thin at the contact patch (curved on the inside, flat on the outside means they're going to meet at a tangent in the middle with little to no warning).

I use both brakes, but the front one is the one doing most of the work. I'm probably doing longer runs than you thus need them less. I'm surprised at how engine braking is enough 99% of the time if I plan a bit further ahead though.

When my new parts arrive I think I'll just get the dealer to change them next time the wheel is off for a tyre change.

Don't forget brake fluid is supposed to be changed every 2 years.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 10, 2017 6:52 pm 
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Well, from searching I found out it's not a good idea to completely remove the pistons (unless doing a complete strip and re-build of the piston block off the bike) as fluid will probably leak all over the place and end up in a much worse and harder situation to solve. Tomorrow, weather permitting, I will try again. If one or more pistons does not move freely or sticks then it's due to crud build-up and a bigger issue - I believe there are a few small rust spots on the pistons (damn rainy salty UK weather).

The piston houseing can be properly cleaned and rebuilt off bike once the system is bled and new fluid and dust seals are acquired, possibly along with new pistons. I notice the manual calls for silicon grease for all the needed areas of the brake system - dust seal, slider rods, pad pin end, etc, but I've just ordered some Castrol Red Rubber grease as it seems it's the industry standard for brake part lubrication (not the pads mind!) and it's fine with rubber and all grades of brake fluid so no harmful contamination as with copper grease or the like).

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 11, 2017 6:20 am 
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Success! So much easier when you remove the bracket from the rest of the assembly as it exposes the pistons and spring area much more than with the bracket attached. Yesterday I was not sure about doing that (worried it would be hard to get it back in) and failed to get all three pistons pushed in enough, mostly two were extra stubborn. Today in 15 minutes I had the job done - all three pistons went in quite easily once I could get the leverage right.

The fluid level on the expansion thing shows about 2/3's window height now which is perfect (original brake fluid but it seems fine for now - I'll change it post winter when I may dissemble the brake assembly and replace gaskets/washers/pistons and properly grease things).

So, if you have a nice clean almost new looking bike like Homie or Whitenoise and live in a cleaner environment than dirty, salty wet UK, then Honda's suggestion for pad replacement is to just remove the pad pin, press a little onto the disc with original pads to press the pistons in and hey presto, new thick 5mm each pads will fit - well, if your lucky but I doubt it is that easy. Otherwise ignore that, take the assembly off the bike, remove the mounting bracket from the two rods (it just puills off and presses on), clean the area and pistons as much as possible before pressing them in, then the pads fit easily and the job is done.

Mechanic tasks to date - oil changes and pad replacement - next up is clutch bearing, clutch pads (the non PCX ones for smoother running), belt, air filter, and rear tyre - not necessarily in that order :)

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