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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:15 pm 
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Thanks to Homies super video, I waded thru removing and reinstalling all the bodywork with not even 1 broken clip or leftover nut/bolt/screw/clip, etc. The exhaust was spot on, but the intake was a tight .003, .0025 was a snug fit. So I adjusted it to .004 and buttoned everything up. Runs like a top, no noises, no complaints.

So here's the rub .... 1/2 way thru reassembly when I went to put the 4 radiator bolt back on I noticed that the timing mark had drifted at some point after I set TDC to about 2 or 3 degrees advanced. Anyways, all my experience is with older engines, and on them the camshaft grind has the valves closed way more than 2 or 3 degrees either side of TDC. But I know nothing about cam timing or grinds on these newer more efficient engines. Should I be concerned that I wasn't getting a true reading for the gap with that kind of variance off of TDC ? I'd hate to need to tear it all apart again, but will do so if necessary.

Thanks all, I appreciate that you all are here.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 5:23 pm 
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springer1 wrote:
Thanks to Homies super video, I waded thru removing and reinstalling all the bodywork with not even 1 broken clip or leftover nut/bolt/screw/clip, etc. The exhaust was spot on, but the intake was a tight .003, .0025 was a snug fit. So I adjusted it to .004 and buttoned everything up. Runs like a top, no noises, no complaints.

So here's the rub .... 1/2 way thru reassembly when I went to put the 4 radiator bolt back on I noticed that the timing mark had drifted at some point after I set TDC to about 2 or 3 degrees advanced. Anyways, all my experience is with older engines, and on them the camshaft grind has the valves closed way more than 2 or 3 degrees either side of TDC. But I know nothing about cam timing or grinds on these newer more efficient engines. Should I be concerned that I wasn't getting a true reading for the gap with that kind of variance off of TDC ? I'd hate to need to tear it all apart again, but will do so if necessary.

Thanks all, I appreciate that you all are here.



Perfectly fine. As you know there is that certain "slack" period. Doesn't hugely affect the setting.

Does it start and run ok, yes it does, then it's OK.

Other opinions are of course available. Watch out for the acorns...

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Going through a "period of clarity"


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 7:53 pm 
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Thanks much, You You - thats great news ! I was hoping thats the case .... I'd rather not need to tear it down again.

I am probably slower than most people, as I removed each body panel, I put its associated hardware in a baggie and labeled it, as well as some notes about their placement; it made the reassembly organized with no missed parts.

A cheap set of Trim fastener & molding removal tools helped, and the trip clips Honda uses are easy, they are 2 piece with a sleeve and an inner plunger that expands it. To remove, just push in the plunger which relieves the sleeve's expansion and it the whole thing lifts out. To replace, push the plunger back up so it protrudes out of the sleeve, insert the sleeve completely in the hole and then push the plunger down level.

I don't have a tappet wrench small enough to fit the tappet's tiny tip, so I just used one of those $2 mini vice grips they sell at Pep Boys to hold it steady as I tightened the lock nut.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 11:17 pm 
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Glad that all worked out, doesn't make us whisperer's but we do sleep better knowing the gorilla's didn't get in there and muck about in our bikes. You did a better job than I by the grabrail cover tabs... great work. The 5k inspection is in my channel too when the time comes. You will avoid the gorilla's again and save some big money next time :D Nobody is going to do this work better than you, every nut and bolt back in it's place and you know of any that aren't after the job.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=P ... wokgYeAxFP


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:17 pm 
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Ya know, I gotta thank everyone for not razzing me on that question .... 2 or 3 degrees off TDC .... compression stroke on one side, power stroke on the other .... theres no way that that camshaft has any lift. I guess the body removal and install effected my brain - LoL.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:47 pm 
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springer1 wrote:
Ya know, I gotta thank everyone for not razzing me on that question .... 2 or 3 degrees off TDC .... compression stroke on one side, power stroke on the other .... theres no way that that camshaft has any lift. I guess the body removal and install effected my brain - LoL.
I just figured it was a question for a whisperer or the upper echelon mechanics sub-catagory. You guys didn't know we had that sub-category did you. Only members with the prestige badge know where it is ;)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 9:08 pm 
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Hahaha, yeah right ! - I like to read thru the posts in the PCX Performance section of the forum, but they make me feel anemic. That thread " 2015 Honda PCX150 Black Metallic (Performance information) " is really awesome! I'm just hoping to find a simple tutorial or manual somewhere about how a CVT works and why various changes result in the impacts that they do so I can understand at least the basics.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 8:46 am 
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I like this one but there are many more. If you flip this one around putting the fly weight pulley on the left and the clutch pulley on the right you have what we have on the scooters.



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