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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 1:55 pm 
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Ok, so I have changed my oil (first change) using Honda's recommendation and cleaned the screen. The manual says to put back .8 qt. if screen is not removed and 1 qt. if it is.
I have put back in .8 qt. of oil and started it to check for leaks. none seen.
I checked the dipstick after letting it set for 5/10 minutes and it showed full on the stick. It seems if I put the whole quart in it will be overfilled.
OPINIONS Please!
I am not going to add anymore oil until I hear back from someone. :roll:

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:09 pm 
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Go with the .8 quarts. About the only time that I have seen the entire quart used is when the engine has been taken apart. I check the screen during each oil change and it never takes a full quart. Just check it before you ride.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:22 pm 
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Mel46 wrote:
Go with the .8 quarts. About the only time that I have seen the entire quart used is when the engine has been taken apart. I check the screen during each oil change and it never takes a full quart. Just check it before you ride.

Thanks Mel! Now I can salvage the rest of this beautiful Saturday on 2 wheels. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 3:23 pm 
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I put in 20, and then start checking....then I use an oil syringe and go up 2 oz and check again, until it's mid stick.

You can't look at capacities when you're refilling, because you don't know how much you left in the sump. It may be a half an ounce, it maybe zero, maybe 1 oz....

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 6:10 pm 
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My book says 800ml - so that's what I put in after draining it. I don't even look at or use the dipstick. I do however track how much it loses between my 4000km oil changes (lost 60ml last time).


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2017 8:06 pm 
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When I took the screen out there might have been a 1/4 teaspoon of oil that dripped out so that is why I questioned the 1 qt. when cleaning the screen.
The oil is at the top of the dipstick after running it and rechecking the level so I guess all is well in the world now.....except where it isn't!
Thanks guys!

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:01 am 
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The difference in fill-up capacities is because the area around the screen filter holds some oil which doesn't get drained unless you take out the screen filter and then lean the scoot over towards the left side to let it all drain out.

But even after doing all that mine still doesn't take quite a quart to fill, so stop short of a quart and then add and check a couple of times. If it ends up showing somewhere in the cross-hatched portion of the stick or slightly above it, you're good to go. You can add the rest of the quart in a couple of months if it needs it.

Johnny

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 10:33 am 
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From my experience I would recommend just going with the 800 ml at first. . .even with having done the screen cleaning despite what the SM says. It gives you the opportunity to be spot on with the refill or add a few drops as needed. I added a U.S. quart when I did mine (per the SM) and ended up having to remove oil with a tube and syringe until it got down to the proper level. :(

I moved my PCX port to starboard and back and forth (carefully) to make sure I got all the oil out when I drained it too! Some residual oil remains in cavities of the engine so it doesn't get totally drained dry. :geek:

If you disassembled the engine then that would be a different story. That being said I'd still go with 800 ml at first and then add a little as needed to establish the proper level after that. 8)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 11:55 am 
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hondamatic wrote:
When I took the screen out there might have been a 1/4 teaspoon of oil that dripped out so that is why I questioned the 1 qt. when cleaning the screen.
The oil is at the top of the dipstick after running it and rechecking the level so I guess all is well in the world now.....except where it isn't!
Thanks guys!


Any dirt or metal particles in the screen?

I have yet to clean my screen after 12,000 kms (1 year).

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 12:49 pm 
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18 months, 3k miles, 1st time I ever checked, screen was perfectly clean.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 5:30 pm 
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alx123 wrote:
Any dirt or metal particles in the screen?

I have yet to clean my screen after 12,000 kms (1 year).


I've done mine one - I think it was at the 24,000km change. Only 1 "hole" was covered. Gave up worrying about it after that.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2017 7:55 pm 
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I think the screen is a low tech safety net to catch any large crap from the factory or if you feel the need to toss ball bearings in with your oil change. A one time event in my opinion but I will hear other opinions on the matter.

I found rag lint in mine and if I see more next time I'm going to start using paper towels to wipe the dipstick. Rather I suspect the lint was from the gloves worn by workers on the assembly line and I don't expect to see it again :roll:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 5:44 am 
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Great. Same thing with my drive oil, changed only around 11k kms and I found nothing to be worried about.

That's 2 less things I wont bother worrying anymore.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 6:54 pm 
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I've always use paper towels to wipe the dipstick and I too found lint in my strainer screen on the first oil change. :o


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 8:59 am 
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Any dirt or metal particles in the screen?

I have yet to clean my screen after 12,000 kms (1 year).[/quote]

I didn't find any metal in the screen but did find a little bit of cloth fiber I would guess it came from the gloves of a factory worker putting the motor together. I'll check it again next time I change the oil at 1k, if it is clean again I will forget it until about 10k or so.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 7:23 pm 
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I don't see any dirt or else in the screen except first change.
I put in 800ml and sufficent.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 12:34 pm 
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Just completed my 600 mile first oil change, first drove it 5 or 6 miles to get everything stirred up. Were a few small aluminum flecks on the outside of the screen and on the inside of the dome nut. The oil flows thru the screen from the outside to the inside, so some grit can collect in the inside of the nut.

I changed the final drive oil as well, it had that glittery look to it, I'm glad I did it. I did the valves a few days ago.

1 qt of Honda oil was enough for both the final drive and engine combined. It's curious that Honda specifies the engine oil level be checked with the engine HOT but the oil we add during the refill is cool (and the oil we check before starting the engine for a ride is also cool). After I took it for a 40 mile ride, the level was a bit high, so I removed some to get it down to the top limit when hot. I'll see what that translates to when cool.

Rear brake took 3 full turns before wheel spin started to be effected, I then backed it out 1 turn & wheel spins freely .... so it took 2 turns. Even with that adjustment, the brake-lock still doesn't work (I am doing it correctly with the left lever depressed hard until the lock clicks) so I'll need to address that at some point but I mostly use the center stand so its no biggie. I anyone has tips about trouble shooting the brake-lock, pls let me know.

Thanks, I'm glad all you are here. This is one utterly fantastic 150cc scooter.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 1:12 pm 
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springer1 wrote:
Just completed my 600 mile first oil change, first drove it 5 or 6 miles to get everything stirred up. Were a few small aluminum flecks on the outside of the screen and on the inside of the dome nut. The oil flows thru the screen from the outside to the inside, so some grit can collect in the inside of the nut.

I changed the final drive oil as well, it had that glittery look to it, I'm glad I did it. I did the valves a few days ago.

1 qt of Honda oil was enough for both the final drive and engine combined. It's curious that Honda specifies the engine oil level be checked with the engine HOT but the oil we add during the refill is cool (and the oil we check before starting the engine for a ride is also cool). After I took it for a 40 mile ride, the level was a bit high, so I removed some to get it down to the top limit when hot. I'll see what that translates to when cool.

Rear brake took 3 full turns before wheel spin started to be effected, I then backed it out 1 turn & wheel spins freely .... so it took 2 turns. Even with that adjustment, the brake-lock still doesn't work (I am doing it correctly with the left lever depressed hard until the lock clicks) so I'll need to address that at some point but I mostly use the center stand so its no biggie. I anyone has tips about trouble shooting the brake-lock, pls let me know.

Thanks, I'm glad all you are here. This is one utterly fantastic 150cc scooter.



Who is this guy? Why so normal and sensible? Surely he should have issues? An acorn free post.

Keep it up :D

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 2:51 pm 
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It does sound like you are performing the proper procedure for setting the parking brake but you are not aggressive enough. It's a nice calibration for keeping up with pad wear so lets try again.

1. Squeeze the left hand brake hard several times without touching the P-brake knob and release the lever.
2. Go to the nut at the axle and rotate it clockwise one increment at a time until the wheel has resistance enough it will not spin more than a few inches with a good thrust.
3. Check now that you will not be able to set the P-brake at all... because there is not enough play.
4. Turn the nut one increment at a time counterclockwise until you can set the P-brake. Check each time you meet a new increment on the nut if you can set the P-brake and stop when you can.

When you can set the P-brake you will have free spin on the wheel, the pads will be properly adjusted and the P-brake will work as good as the stupid thing can.

IMO and personal experience never use the P-brake for more than adjusting your drum pads because if you fail to release it someday you burn up the pads. No indicator, no idiot light and you can't feel it's on when driving... just smell burt pad when get to destination. booooooooooo Honda

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 3:55 pm 
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homie wrote:
It does sound like you are performing the proper procedure for setting the parking brake but you are not aggressive enough. It's a nice calibration for keeping up with pad wear so lets try again.

1. Squeeze the left hand brake hard several times without touching the P-brake knob and release the lever.
2. Go to the nut at the axle and rotate it clockwise one increment at a time until the wheel has resistance enough it will not spin more than a few inches with a good thrust.
3. Check now that you will not be able to set the P-brake at all... because there is not enough play.
4. Turn the nut one increment at a time counterclockwise until you can set the P-brake. Check each time you meet a new increment on the nut if you can set the P-brake and stop when you can.

When you can set the P-brake you will have free spin on the wheel, the pads will be properly adjusted and the P-brake will work as good as the stupid thing can.

IMO and personal experience never use the P-brake for more than adjusting your drum pads because if you fail to release it someday you burn up the pads. No indicator, no idiot light and you can't feel it's on when driving... just smell burt pad when get to destination. booooooooooo Honda


Shoes not pads? :lol:

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