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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 1:05 pm 
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Okay - So I waited until I rode at least 1000 miles on my new 2017 PCX to do my first oil change on the Final Drive. Actually there was 1050 miles on it today. . .have only had it since May. :geek:

To make a long story short it's an easy job. As Homie shows in his video (and in the SM) you remove the top "inside" bolt (fill bolt) on the drive case and then the drain bolt below. Use a good sized drain pan to catch the old oil. The drain bolt is about twice the length of the fill bolt so don't get them mixed up when you reinstall them. They each have what appear to be copper washers. I gave it at least 10 minutes for the oil to totally drain out while I futzed around with other stuff. I did rotate the wheel a few times also. After I wiped the drain hole clean I reinstalled the bolt and tightened.

After shaking the bottle a bit to mix up the additives in the oil, I eyeballed about what looked like an 1/8th of a quart of Pro Honda HP4M 10w-30 with Moly and emptied it into a plastic cup (I ended up having to add a little more because I erred on the side caution). I grabbed a 10 ml plastic syringe and took from the cup and injected into the fill hole several times until the oil started to drip back out of the hole when it was full. I let that drip for a few minutes until it basically stopped dripping, wiped, and reinstalled the fill bolt and tightened.

Wiped everything clean again, emptied the old oil into my recycle jug to be properly disposed of,recorded the maintenance in my manual, and went for a ride.

Below I'm providing some pictures do show the condition of this oil since it was the first change on the final drive. As an added note I had previously done the engine oil at around 600 miles and used the same type oil except in a 10w-40 weight.

Drain pan was clean without any grit or particles before oil change.

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Oil was drained and there were some trace amounts of shiny particles in the oil. . .sort of a goldish color. . .break in debris I guess.

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Another closer pic of the particles. Will see how it looks the next time but I think after 1000 miles it should be pretty well broken in by now and the next time it's drained hopefully it will have little or no grit.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 1:45 pm 
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You didn't happen to take any pictures during the process, did you?

...or are you saying that homie's vid. was adequate on its own? ;)

Sometimes, I feel like I need to find videos that are not done so tidily. He's got everything laid out in a tidy manner... it just doesn't simulate how things work in my garage at all. ^_^

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 2:18 pm 
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Put a dab of paint on the two bolts that need removing to save checking the manual next time.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 4:40 pm 
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Smaug wrote:
Sometimes, I feel like I need to find videos that are not done so tidily. He's got everything laid out in a tidy manner... it just doesn't simulate how things work in my garage at all. ^_^


I know the feeling. During an oil change it's almost mandatory for the wind to pick up and blow the last tiny stream of oil into places where it's not supposed to go - then of course some has to spill when I'm putting the new stuff in.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 5:37 pm 
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You didn't happen to take any pictures during the process, did you?

...or are you saying that homie's vid. was adequate on its own? ;)

Sometimes, I feel like I need to find videos that are not done so tidily. He's got everything laid out in a tidy manner... it just doesn't simulate how things work in my garage at all. ^_^


I watched Homie's video, but could have figured it out using the SM. The thing is the video gives you that "real life" experience you just don't get with printed publications. :D

Here's his Final Drive videos. . .you can bookmark them for later. Everything is in the open, use the center stand, the bolts are 12mm, a cushion to kneel on would help, have the usual roll of paper towels on standby. ;)

You keep his videos in your brain and the job is a cinch. I used a smaller syringe and didn't have a plastic tube on the end to siphon from the oil bottle so by pouring the approximate amount of oil I needed in a plastic cup first made it easier to fill the syringe. :geek:

FWIW when I did the engine oil change at 600 miles I actually found lint in the oil strainer screen just as he had predicted in one of his other videos. ;)

Designates the bolts to remove for drain and fill.


Demonstrates the Final Drive oil refill.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 5:53 pm 
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Put a dab of paint on the two bolts that need removing to save checking the manual next time.


Good idea. . .I've got some old "touch up" paint sitting around that comes with the small paint brush. If I'm careful maybe I can do an "F" for fill and a "D" for drain on the socket head centers. :geek:


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:26 pm 
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PCX150Rider wrote:
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Put a dab of paint on the two bolts that need removing to save checking the manual next time.


Good idea. . .I've got some old "touch up" paint sitting around that comes with the small paint brush. If I'm careful maybe I can do an "F" for fill and a "D" for drain on the socket head centers. :geek:


I just take a phone pic for my archives and mark the pic bolts, always avail and no paint.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:41 pm 
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Also covered by maddiedog in the 'how to section' of this forum - lots of useful tips and vid links there.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3224&hilit=final+drive

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:43 pm 
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Jge64 wrote:
PCX150Rider wrote:
Quote:
Put a dab of paint on the two bolts that need removing to save checking the manual next time.


Good idea. . .I've got some old "touch up" paint sitting around that comes with the small paint brush. If I'm careful maybe I can do an "F" for fill and a "D" for drain on the socket head centers. :geek:


I just take a phone pic for my archives and mark the pic bolts, always avail and no paint.


I just look in the area where the two bolts were last time ...


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 6:48 pm 
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TheMaverick wrote:

I just look in the area where the two bolts were last time ...


There are three bolts in the area.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 7:24 pm 
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you you wrote:
TheMaverick wrote:

I just look in the area where the two bolts were last time ...


There are three bolts in the area.


Yes. On my bike the two upper ones are in the same horizontal plane so obviously neither of those are drain holes, and of the two, obviously one must be structural and the other just a plug - and it would make no sense to make the structural one the one closer to the front - so it's not hard to work out IMHO which are the two that need to come out to change the rear drive oil.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 7:57 pm 
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Quote:
Also covered by maddiedog in the 'how to section' of this forum - lots of useful tips and vid links there.
viewtopic.php?f=3&t=3224&hilit=final+drive


Very informational link. . .. Which reminds me. I'm going to keep an eye on the drain and fill bolts for any weeping over the next hundred miles or so. I reused the original sealing washers. They were in good shape. That being said I'm going to have to start a list of seals, orings, gaskets, and washers to have on hand as more scheduled maintenance is required. Instead of ordering stuff in ones and twos I'd rather order a sufficient quantity so as to build up the purchase value to qualify for free shipping. . .like from Bike Bandit. 8)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:16 pm 
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PCX150Rider wrote:
Which reminds me. I'm going to keep an eye on the drain and fill bolts for any weeping over the next hundred miles or so. I reused the original sealing washers. They were in good shape.


I've done that with all washers I've had off - no problems so far. I even went 4000 KM without a washer on the sump drain plug after I discovered I'd left it off after changing the oil ... still wasn't a problem.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 8:22 pm 
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TheMaverick wrote:
you you wrote:
TheMaverick wrote:

I just look in the area where the two bolts were last time ...


There are three bolts in the area.


Yes. On my bike the two upper ones are in the same horizontal plane so obviously neither of those are drain holes, and of the two, obviously one must be structural and the other just a plug - and it would make no sense to make the structural one the one closer to the front - so it's not hard to work out IMHO which are the two that need to come out to change the rear drive oil.



Oh dear..., you've taken a set.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2017 9:11 pm 
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Just don't touch the bolt w/o the washer.

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