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PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2017 11:33 pm 
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Just a thought - since the problem is intermittent, one fault-finding technique when it's not starting might be to "exercise" each of the switches in turn. If it momentarily kicks into life then good chance that the switch you're currently "exercising" is the culprit.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:05 am 
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TheMaverick wrote:
Just a thought - since the problem is intermittent, one fault-finding technique when it's not starting might be to "exercise" each of the switches in turn. If it momentarily kicks into life then good chance that the switch you're currently "exercising" is the culprit.


Good idea, also start checking all electrical plugs /connectors for tightness , corrosion etc. on the ignition switch and others.Sounds like a loose connection or dirty connection.


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 12:42 pm 
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I doubt that I can add anything to this, but I had some electrical problems once that turned out to be caused by a mouse in the tail area. It made itself a nice nest from my wiring. I had to replace wires that had been chewed through as they were grounding the battery to the frame. I am not saying that you have that problem, only that you may find the problem after you have taken the plastics off. Hopefully it is something as obvious as that...and while the plastics are off check the switches to make sure none of them is grounding out or is open. Electrical is tricky. It isn't like water, which you can see. Good luck.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 3:54 pm 
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Today's adventures:
I rolled the scoot back to the driveway, tried it, and it started. Tried it again, and it didn't. I removed the two fuses marked main - they looked fine, but I gave them a burnish with 320 paper anyway. Still no-go. Since I had enough plastic off to get to the ECM plugs, I figured I may as well do the few checks that the manual suggested. All checked out fine. Re-plugged the connectors, and... she started. She started again. I put the seat on and took a ten mile spin, returning (as you might imagine) to my driveway. The scoot has started a half dozen times now.

I am not at all convinced that I have fixed anything - it will take quite a few flawless starts before I believe that reseating the ECM connections has resolved the issue. OTOH - there is nothing to check or fix if it is working. I will hold off putting the cover with the fuel panel back on for a bit, and see what happens over the next few days. Taking it to work seems a bit dicey - the Admiral's sense of humor will be thin if she has to rescue me yet again.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 3:59 pm 
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GeorgeSK wrote:
Today's adventures:
I rolled the scoot back to the driveway, tried it, and it started. Tried it again, and it didn't. I removed the two fuses marked main - they looked fine, but I gave them a burnish with 320 paper anyway. Still no-go. Since I had enough plastic off to get to the ECM plugs, I figured I may as well do the few checks that the manual suggested. All checked out fine. Re-plugged the connectors, and... she started. She started again. I put the seat on and took a ten mile spin, returning (as you might imagine) to my driveway. The scoot has started a half dozen times now.

I am not at all convinced that I have fixed anything - it will take quite a few flawless starts before I believe that reseating the ECM connections has resolved the issue. OTOH - there is nothing to check or fix if it is working. I will hold off putting the cover with the fuel panel back on for a bit, and see what happens over the next few days. Taking it to work seems a bit dicey - the Admiral's sense of humor will be thin if she has to rescue me yet again.

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 30, 2017 6:49 pm 
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FWIW I find connections to be what they call the "Devil in the Details". Whether it's batteries, TV antennas, laundry machine switches, volume slider controls on stereos, or whatever. . .things that connect or are connected seem to go out of wack either by lack of use (corrosion or film, bug nests) or too much use (just plain worn). :o

My internet modem (and the last one I had) will occasionally crap out and leave the impression that something serious has gone wrong with my PC or modem, or the damn provider is on their ass again. I totally got all dazed and confused the first time it happened to me years ago. But now I know better. . .know exactly what to do. . .and it works every time (as long as the service provider is not having a problem). I simply detach (unscrew) the internet cable out of the wall connection and out of the connection at the modem. I slightly bend that really thin wire ever so slightly so that when I screw it back into the connections there will definitely be metal on metal contact. Seems weird but it works like a charm. I don't know why it just suddenly goes out once in a rare while but it does and the disconnect and reconnect restores the service. Maybe it builds up a static charge and by me touching it the thing grounds out. . .I dunno. :roll:

Fingers crossed your reconnect of the ECM will do the trick for Ad Infinitum. ;)


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 3:30 pm 
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It's been a week of trials, and the scoot has either started or gone through the MIL/fuel pump prime process every time. It has been on two rides, choosing the lumpiest pavement around here. I decided to close it up and hope for the best. I hope to not continue this thread for a while, but if I do, it will be with replacing the kill switch.

Got a good deal when I went to pick up the replacement front cover piece that, between the shop and myself, lost enough clips and tabs to be unusable. On the counter were a few packages of Vololights marked $50 (instead of the $130 retail). I had been looking at brake modulator boxes or a Knight Rider LED brake light bar and the Vololight, and at this price, I couldn't resist. Snagged one for PCX and one for Forza. Since PCX only needed another couple of panels removed, I got the light installed before buttoning the PCX up. Seems to work pretty well, but not in response to engine braking, which isn't surprising for such a light machine. Still - it should help a bit in the distracted driver department, if anything actually can.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 5:00 pm 
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It's been a week of trials, and the scoot has either started or gone through the MIL/fuel pump prime process every time. It has been on two rides, choosing the lumpiest pavement around here. I decided to close it up and hope for the best. I hope to not continue this thread for a while, but if I do, it will be with replacing the kill switch.


So far so good then? And a good price discount on some stuff you've been wanting as well? If I were you I'd buy a Mega Millions and Power Ball quick pick on your next visit to the store. . .but make it soon. . .. Good things come in "threes" as they say. 8)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 2:54 pm 
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One switch that was not mentioned, but which is very important is the starter button switch. That is one that makes and breaks current in normal use, as opposed to the others, which would only occasionally break current.

That is a common failure point on bikes; it's the first one I would replace.

Next step is to just short the kickstand switch out of the circuit, unless you're the kind of person who rides of with that stand down. You don't need that extra failure point.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 4:12 pm 
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My logic re the kill switch is this: Start with side stand down, ignition off, and kill switch off. Turn on ignition. Speedo sweeps. Taillight comes on. Blinkers and horn will function. Now flick the kill switch to run. MIL illuminates for about three to five seconds and the fuel pump primes. If this does not happen, the scoot is not going to start, and that is where I have hit the wall during this adventure. If I get the MIL and fuel pump, the scoot will start once I raise the sidestand and hit the ignition switch.

I found it odd that the kill switch is not a part of the failure tree in the service manual, but if you look at the wiring diagram, it connects to the ECM, and without it, nothing is going to happen. Dissection of the switch is not discussed in the manual either, but the part itself is available (http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/hon/ ... itch-cable Part five for the princely sum of $8.06 US). Even at the dealer retail, it will be worth the experiment.

It may be moot - perhaps all will simply work. It did today.

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