I just finished re-assembling it all, so I want to write this while it's fresh in my head:
Tools to have ahead of time:
- 3/8" drive Metric socket set going up to 19mm and starting at 10mm or less
- 15/16 or 24mm socket for the rear axle nut. I'm not sure if a box wrench would fit in there. Open end is quite risky; don't use that. You'll probably need a 1/2" drive ratchet for that. A short extension was also handy, to let the ratchet handle clear the swingarm.
- Short socket extensions
- A flashlight
- Some 2x2 or 2x4 to cut to legnth as a front axle prop, for when you get the front wheel off. Cut a notch or a semi-circular cutout for the axle to nest in.
- Some molybdenum grease, to re-grease the axles and drive splines after cleaning them and before putting the bike back together.
- A few paper towels and maybe an old toothbrush, to clean the dirt, brake dust and such out of the nooks and crannies while you have everything apart.
- (optional)nitrile gloves to keep your hands clean. I bought a big box of them at Home Depot. Otherwise, it'll take quite some scrubbing afterwards, to get the grease, dirt and brake dust out of your hands' fingerprints.
- A long zip tie or string, to secure the rear shock out of the way
- A 15/16" or 24mm socket, for the rear axle nut. This is not something that is included in most small socket or combination wrench sets, so plan ahead and get one. I'm not sure if a box end wrench would fit in the recess to access this nut.
- Copper grease or "anti-seize" for the exhaust studs, so the next time you need to take off the exhaust, it's easy. I also used copper grease on all the bolts that were bolted to the muffler. I figure they may get hot and try to seize up as well.
- The muffler heat shield bolts and the exhaust pipe acorn nuts need 10mm socket.
- I found that a 3/8" drive deep socket and a 4" extension were the perfect length to reach the acorn nuts that hold the exhaust pipe flange onto the cylinder head. Another inch or two longer would have been fine too.
- The front axle bolt and nut are common metric sizes that you'd have in a decent socket or combo wrench kit.
- Since the bike's weight is quite front-biased when on the center stand, (especially once the muffler, rear wheel and right side swingarm are off) all you need is some way to prop up the front end. The way I did it was to jack up on the 1x6 across the front/belly of the bike, and have my son prop it with a 2x2 while I manually lifted the front off the bike. This might be risky, if your garage floor is smooth, but mine's all pock-marked from salt damage and cracks in the concrete. I'd guess it only took about 50 lbs. worth of lifting force, so you don't even really need a jack, if you have a buddy to help you.
- Check (eyeball) your brake shoes (rear) and pads (front) while you have the rear wheel off. For reference, my 2013 PCX had about 6675 miles on it and there was still a lot of brake material left on the rear and a fair amount left on the front.
- When you take off the bottom of the right rear shock, replace the bolt in the shock and hang it up with a zip tie, somewhere, so it's out of the way when you're trying to maneuver the rear wheel off.
- Loosen the two (5mm) allen bolts that hold the rear tire hugger on. No need to take them all the way out, but you'll need a bit of wiggle room.
