Moderator: Modsquad
here is the playlist in order of service... good luckpcxpower wrote:Awesome!!! Thank you very much for the effort and time to record these instructions, and I'm sure that they will be really helpful for those who decide to do their own maintenance to their PCXs
When I did this (and uploaded a link to a public Facebook photo gallery as I did not know how else to share), I asked folks about the special tappet wrench. My gaps were still in spec at 9,000 kilo / 6,000 mile, so I had not need to loosen / adjust. Soon (at about 18,000 kilo) I will check again, but this time I want to be prepared to adjust. As you said 'US only' in your thread, and as it's not in my very expensive manual, I'd like to ask what is 'US only' - the tool availability or the need for a 3mm tappet wrench? Is my 2015 LED PCX (chassis kf18-100****) bought in Japan likely to have difference sized square head tappet adjuster screws?homie wrote:In review I note there was no reason to remove the crank case cover on the left side. I assume it was to place a socket and turn the crank shaft for timing and I used my thumb on the fins instead (one person method).
Also you could remove the body panels without removing the luggage bucket if you knew exactly what was going on under all that plastic but for a first time rookie like me... it worked out better.
Here is a picture of the point at which you check the clearances and I do note there will be no actual adjustment footage because SORRY I don't need oneHowever if you did need a little tweak there are special tiny wrenches involved that someone should show you in this thread. There are square flats on the stem and one lock nut. Loosen the nut turn the flats to achieve desired clearance then lock it back down while holding the flats on the stem in position (thus the special wrenches). Tappet wrench 3mm 07908-KE90000 (USA ONLY)
Cylinder head cover bolts torque spec was not provided, but use common sense and make them snug.
Steph wrote:Never had the valves checked.
They'll be the same.pxc-in-japan wrote:When I did this (and uploaded a link to a public Facebook photo gallery as I did not know how else to share), I asked folks about the special tappet wrench. My gaps were still in spec at 9,000 kilo / 6,000 mile, so I had not need to loosen / adjust. Soon (at about 18,000 kilo) I will check again, but this time I want to be prepared to adjust. As you said 'US only' in your thread, and as it's not in my very expensive manual, I'd like to ask what is 'US only' - the tool availability or the need for a 3mm tappet wrench? Is my 2015 LED PCX (chassis kf18-100****) bought in Japan likely to have difference sized square head tappet adjuster screws?homie wrote:In review I note there was no reason to remove the crank case cover on the left side. I assume it was to place a socket and turn the crank shaft for timing and I used my thumb on the fins instead (one person method).
Also you could remove the body panels without removing the luggage bucket if you knew exactly what was going on under all that plastic but for a first time rookie like me... it worked out better.
Here is a picture of the point at which you check the clearances and I do note there will be no actual adjustment footage because SORRY I don't need one
Cylinder head cover bolts torque spec was not provided, but use common sense and make them snug.
Thank you.
I recommend that sealant as we, my friends and I, have used it in cold rainy conditions to seal a leaking gasket without properly cleaning the surfaces. It was used on a cloned honda engine from japan with a bit too wide of gaps on the engine gaps. It's worth the 9 dollars that it sells for.homie wrote:iceman wrote:Thanks for al that Homie! Makes sense to remove the seat well for added easy of access.Coming from a pro I consider your interest in this an honor. SM shows the sealer and where to put it so since I have it. But you are right it doesn't look like it would need it. And its just in the corners as shown.dasshreddar wrote: So you did all that and didn't even adjust them??? only needed .001 more... come on, you can do it
I don't use any "gasket goop"... as long as the gasket is smooth, clean/lightly oiled and torqued evenly... it wont leak.
Even though I could tear apart a pcx with my eyes closed... I still enjoyed watching your videos, thanks.
"what a mess"
Thanks, then I will go ahead and buy a 10mm / 3mm tool for it. I used my finger tips when doing the (fully visible and very easy) ones on my 2010 Suzuki Address 125, but the lack of visibility and poor access (in my opinion) on the PCX leaves me less confident / less calm. I wonder if I could see it all if I removed the under-cowling - the black plastic? Overkill? Probably.you you wrote:They'll be the same.pxc-in-japan wrote:When I did this (and uploaded a link to a public Facebook photo gallery as I did not know how else to share), I asked folks about the special tappet wrench. My gaps were still in spec at 9,000 kilo / 6,000 mile, so I had not need to loosen / adjust. Soon (at about 18,000 kilo) I will check again, but this time I want to be prepared to adjust. As you said 'US only' in your thread, and as it's not in my very expensive manual, I'd like to ask what is 'US only' - the tool availability or the need for a 3mm tappet wrench? Is my 2015 LED PCX (chassis kf18-100****) bought in Japan likely to have difference sized square head tappet adjuster screws?homie wrote:In review I note there was no reason to remove the crank case cover on the left side. I assume it was to place a socket and turn the crank shaft for timing and I used my thumb on the fins instead (one person method).
Also you could remove the body panels without removing the luggage bucket if you knew exactly what was going on under all that plastic but for a first time rookie like me... it worked out better.
Here is a picture of the point at which you check the clearances and I do note there will be no actual adjustment footage because SORRY I don't need one
Cylinder head cover bolts torque spec was not provided, but use common sense and make them snug.
Thank you.