The Honda PCX / Forza / ADV150 / SH Forums

The only reason for that lower hose nipple to break is if it gets forced off-axis. Was your original tank loose and flailing around by the upper fastener only (like the OP's)? Other than that condition causing the nipple to get yanked on by the hose or hitting on something, I don't see how padding o...

What happens is that the bottom "molded-nipple"-hold-down (that you see in the fender) comes out of the keyway and the tank flops around on the bolt holding it at the top. The coolant line attached to the bottom of the tank breaks IT'S nipple off the bottom of tank(releasing the coolant in...

Unless Honda recommends it, it's not necessary. These things are very well-engineered.

I took a look at mine, too. The tank is molded with a nipple at the bottom that fits (but doesn't appear to "snap" into) a keyway in the fender. Mine doesn't stay all the way into the keyway but it also resists forward movement out of it. OP: did you have to do a lot of disassembly to get ...

Might be the way the controller updates the level. Try keying off and then back on. It's also possible the float is sticking or the trace that the sending unit touches is damaged or worn. The trip-meter is, indeed, the most accurate method as posted above.

They're all quite interesting until I do the math.

Welcome!

Do it. It's all the fun without any of the hassle. Grab and GO. Twist and smile. Did I mention it's FUN?

Is it possible to see the "rear-underneath" with a good light and a mirror on a stick?

Welcome! I'm new to these, as well(also coming from geared bikes). Ride it. It should hook up and pull smooth and "strong" from a start (right off idle) as well as slowing the bike much like a downshift. My '13 lets go to a "neutral" feel about nine (indicated) mph on slowing. It...

As soon as I see my line in a turn, I typically go to WOT. I weigh about 155 and have never had the stock tire break loose. On decent, dry pavement there just isn't enough power for that. These things are so composed that it's easy to get cocky on them. Ride safe (not like me)(HAH!).

When I check the bike over (oil, etc.), I usually check wheel-to-bike integrity and turning them freely. You could just check every so often when you're doing other functional checks. Can't hurt.

Maybe make it part of a service that you do remove panels for(like the valve-lash).

#56 is a Moto-Guzzi.

Sounds like the inner moving part (that's driven by the sliders) isn't retracting fully. Maybe sticking on the slider/bushing? Should be a fairly straightforward fix. Is that 16G's all on an OE clutch/variator assy? If so, that's pretty good service life. You got the last miles before having to do a...

I joined the MILD BUNCH! Grrrrrr!

So, O.P. what have you found? Enquiring minds want to know.....

O.P.. your first question asked the spring free-length, you're welcome.
The 2013 manual calls for 122 +/- 2.5 CC's of fluid. They recommend 10W (SS-8).
In a collapsed fork that amount of fluid should be 75mm from the top of the fork tube.
Good luck.

Wow, what crazy failure! Thanks for all the updates.

Welcome! Nice write up..
For another nice tall screen, check out the National Cycle #91341.

On mine, the headlight comes on when the motor starts, not on key-up (2013). O.P., do you have a manual? They have quite a few trouble-shooting procedures. There are a couple interesting "fail-safes" built into their running system, as well that will keep it from running.